Why the Leaf Hook Is a Perfect First Project

The decorative leaf-tip hook is a blacksmithing classic for good reason. It's practical (you'll actually use it), visually appealing, and teaches four core skills in a single short session: drawing out, tapering, texturing, and hot bending. It requires minimal stock, no specialist tools, and can be completed in one or two forge sessions. By the end, you'll have a piece you're proud to put on a wall.

Materials and Tools

  • Stock: 1/2" square mild steel (1018 or similar), approximately 10–12 inches long
  • Hammer: Cross-peen or rounding hammer, 2–2.5 lb
  • Anvil
  • Tongs: Bolt jaw or flat jaw tongs to grip 1/2" square stock
  • Bending fork or hardy bick (optional but helpful)
  • Forge and quench tank
  • Wire brush

Step 1: Draw Out and Taper the Tip

Begin at one end of the bar — this will become the leaf tip. Heat this end to a bright orange working temperature.

  1. Place the tip on the anvil horn or the far edge of the anvil face at roughly 45°.
  2. Strike firm blows to begin drawing the end out into a flat, wide taper — you want it to spread wide rather than just narrow to a point. Think of the shape of a spade playing card symbol.
  3. Reheat as needed. Work two opposite faces (top and bottom) primarily to create a flat, leaf-like taper about 1.5–2 inches long.
  4. Flatten and refine on the anvil face, keeping the taper centered on the bar's axis.

Step 2: Texture the Leaf

This step adds the visual detail that makes the piece memorable. Reheat the tapered leaf section to orange.

  1. Using the peen face of your cross-peen hammer, strike a series of overlapping blows across the width of the leaf in a chevron pattern — angling the peen strokes from the center out toward each edge. This mimics the vein pattern of a real leaf.
  2. Alternatively, you can use a ball-peen to create a hammered, dimpled texture across the surface.
  3. Once textured, use the flat face to lightly flatten any high spots that stick up too far.

Step 3: Scroll or Curve the Leaf Tip

A slight curl at the very tip of the leaf adds elegance. Heat just the last inch of the tip to orange.

  1. Hook the very end over the horn of the anvil.
  2. Tap lightly to curl it upward (or downward, your preference) by roughly 30–45°.
  3. Adjust by hand using tongs while still hot if needed.

Step 4: Form the Hook

Now work the other end of the bar — this becomes the hook itself.

  1. Heat the far end (about 3–4 inches from the end) to orange.
  2. Bend it over the anvil horn to create a hook curve. For a classic coat hook, aim for a roughly 90–120° upward curve with a slight inward curl at the tip.
  3. Reheat and refine the curve's tightness and symmetry until you're satisfied.
  4. Optionally, taper the hook's tip slightly for aesthetics.

Step 5: Punch or Drill the Mounting Holes

Approximately 1–2 inches from the leaf end, you'll need one or two mounting holes for wall screws.

  • Hot punch method: Heat the section to orange and use a square or round punch to drive through the bar, then drift to size. Clean the back burr on the anvil's hardy hole.
  • Cold drill method: Allow the piece to fully cool, center-punch, and drill with a HSS bit. Slower but very precise.

Step 6: Clean and Finish

Wire brush the piece thoroughly while still slightly warm to remove scale. For a final finish, you have several options:

  • Beeswax finish: Warm the piece gently and rub beeswax over the surface. Wipe off excess. Provides a warm, dark appearance and rust protection.
  • Linseed oil: Wipe on, heat briefly, wipe off. Traditional and effective.
  • Clear lacquer spray: For indoor pieces where a maintenance-free finish is preferred.

Mount your hook, stand back, and admire your first functional forged piece.